Over the past decade, a new generation of ambitious islanders have returned to their roots after studying and working abroad to refresh tired family businesses, renovate historic properties, and set up sustainably minded ventures. The legacy of Roman, Byzantine, Venetian, and Ottoman rule ripples through the fortified city of Chania, but there's a contemporary edge to this spirited town of merchants and students. Divided by the snow-flecked White Mountains, the Chania prefecture, which covers the western quarter, is a different destination at every turn. She scraped some salt from the rocks, tossed it in, and covered the contents with water and glugs of peppery olive oil, then lit a gas canister and left the soup to bubble vigorously under the sun.Ĭrete was only united with mainland Greece in 1913-after a bitter and bloody independence struggle-and Cretans often refer to their homeland as a continent. Marianna roughly chopped potatoes and tomatoes into a saucepan and tucked the fish on top.
Restaurants accessible by boat near me cracked#
Antonis tipped a mighty fish he'd caught a few hours earlier onto a cracked white stone. We glided past the craggy shoreline, pocked with caves and coves, until we found the perfect spot.
I squeezed on board beside Antonis's young son, Orpheus, whose blond curls floated in the breeze.
We had never met before she picked me up earlier that morning in her brother Antonis's motorboat. But I didn't expect to be eating her silky, briny broth for breakfast in northwestern Crete on a green bay wedged between granite cliffs.
Marianna is head chef at Morito, the Greco-Moorish mezze bar in London that is one of my favorite restaurants. When Marianna Leivaditaki offered to cook me fish soup, I knew it would be good.
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